A BRIEF HISTORY OF EDINBURGH
*
Much of Edinburgh's early history
seems to surround its central fortification
and this is the point where most archaeological
evidence has been found to help us discover
the past. The rock upon which Edinburgh
Castle now stands is a natural stronghold,
and warring Celtic tribes are believed
to have used it as such during the first
centuries of the first millennium. King
Edwin of Northumbria is believed to
have built the fort on the strategic
stone and it was called Dun Eadain meaning
'Fortress-on-a-Hill' later to become
either Edwin's Burgh or Eadain's Burgh,
although there has been much debate
as to whether this is actually true.
However, a fledgling community slowly
developed around the skirts of the protective
stockade. Taking its starting point
from the Castle, the town then developed
down the slope of the Castle Rock.
* In 1018 King Malcolm II defeated
the Northumbrians and Edinburgh Castle
became Scottish.
* In 1128, King David I, after
founding Holyrood Abbey in Edinburgh,
moved his court and thus, the Scottish
capital, from Dunfermline to Edinburgh.
From around this time the town rapidly
grew in size and importance. As animosity
increased between the Scots and the
English, Edinburgh's overall strategic
importance grew and with it the castle
became more and more of a recognised
stronghold for the city.
* Since the 9th century there
has been a church on the site where
St Giles' Cathedral now stands, but
little is known about it until the building
founded by Alexander I in 1120. The
developing route - from the Castle,
along Lawn Market & High Street
(past St Giles' Cathedral), to the Canongate
is today famously known as the 'Royal
Mile'.
* In 1296 Edinburgh Castle sacked
by English king, Edward I.
* There is only one feasible
approach to Edinburgh Castle via the
eastward sloping Royal Mile and would-be
assailants would have to consider this.
In 1313 some resolute attackers under
the orders of Robert the Bruce scaled
the Castle Rock's formidable northern
aspect and ramparts and retook the castle
from the English. They dismantled it,
except for St. MargaretsChapel
* Bruce later granted the town
a royal charter in 1329 as well as jurisdiction
over the port of Leith that lead to
greater trading opportunities and wealth.
* In 1322 Holyrood Abbey sacked
by English.
* The Castle was rebuilt in 1368,
and became not only a fortress but also
a royal palace.
* A brief spell then came under
the English & some fierce power
struggles marked the 14th & the
15th century.
* In 1498 the Palace of Holyrood
was built at the site of the Abbey.
Also Edinburgh was beginning to benefit
from the trade and export of wool, and
the 'Old Town' was developing - creating
the Grassmarket & Cowgate.
* After a bad defeat by the English,
at the battle of Flodden in 1513, the
people of Edinburgh began to work on
a second wall, the Flodden Wall, which
was quickly built after the defeat and
which was then followed by a time of
great instability culminating in the
sacking of the town by Henry VIII's
forces.
* In 1560 the French abandoned
all claim to Scotland in Treaty of Edinburgh.
* Completed in 1560, the Flodden
Wall marked Edinburgh's boundary for
the next 200 years.
* Also in 1560 Protestantism
was declared as Scotland's official
religion. This led to two religious
faiths now being set against each other.
They are best known by the two leaders
who personified them in Scotland: John
Knox - a zealous Protestant reformer;
& Mary Queen of Scots - the pro-French
Catholic. On her return to Scotland
in 1561, Mary set up court in Edinburgh's
Holyrood Palace. Espionage and bloodshed
suffused every level of Edinburgh society,
most famously in an incident when Queen
Mary could only watch in horror as her
secretary and confidant, David Rizzio,
was murdered by a group of noblemen
in Holyroodhouse under the orders of
her husband, Lord Darnley.
* Their son became King James
VI of Scotland in 1567, when he was
13 months old, - and in 1603 he, James
VI, with the Union of the Crowns, inherited
the English throne and moved his Scottish
court to London. This was really the
end of the Scottish monarchy as, despite
his promises, James only ever returned
to his native land once.
* In 1583 Edinburgh University
was founded.
* In 1633 Edinburgh officially
took the title of the capital of Scotland.
* Also in 1633 Charles I, son
of James VI visited the Scottish capital
along with the Archbishop of Canterbury
with instructions that a new prayerbook
be used in Scottish churches, this sparked
of a chain of events, which included
the National Covenant being drawn up,
which led to the 'Bishops' War', which
was then followed by a Civil War in
England and Scotland.
* In 1645 the
Great Plague sweeps through the City,
killing many men, women and children.
*
In 1650
Oliver Cromwell invades Edinburgh.
*
In 1707 the Act of Union joined Scotland
to England and the Scottish parliament
was dissolved.
* In 1736 the Porteous Riot -
Captain Proteous of the town guard lynched
in the Grassmarket as a result of opening
fire on an unruly crowd.
* The last significant assault
on Edinburgh Castle came in 1745 when
the Jacobite forces of Bonnie Prince
Charlie attempted to wrest it from the
English, without too much success -
and had to content themselves with the
Palace of Holyroodhouse, where they
were spasmodically bombarded by the
Castle's guns. The period of the Enlightenment
continued and thrived following the
upheavals and defeat of the Jacobite
Rebellion and throughout the period
of peace that followed.
* By the 18th century it was
decided to branch out of the city's
original ('Flodden') walls - and in
1767 a 'new town' was to be built. The
Scottish architect James Craig developed
a simple grid design based around three
parallel streets - Princess Street,
George Street and Queen Street. This
plan, and the beautiful Georgian architecture
of which it is comprised, are still
in place today and are the envy of many
a city around the world.
* The Victorian era was another
time of expansion in the city. Middle-class
suburbs such as Marchmont & Morningside
sprung up. The Edinburgh & Leith
railway line was built in 1831, which
linked the port and industrial centre
with the capital city, and the Edinburgh
& Glasgow line then followed in
1842, then in 1846 Edinburgh was finally
linked by rail to London.
* In 1864 the last public execution
takes place in Edinburgh.
* In 1871 horse-drawn tramcars
appear in the City.
* In 1910 electric trams are
introduced.
* In 1947 Edinburgh International
Festival is inaugurated along with the
first Military Tattoo. Many people today
associate modern Edinburgh with The
International Festival, which has been
keeping the city at the centre of the
international arts scene ever since.
Today, outside London, Edinburgh and
its castle are the most popular attractions
in the United Kingdom. The castle unfolds
the various chapters of its long existence,
through time it has been used at one
time or another as a stronghold, palace,
barracks and prison, - it is not just
a beautiful set of buildings, but it
is also saturated with the history of
Edinburgh and indeed Scotland itself.
The capital of the country is one of
the most beautiful cities in Europe,
in that there is no doubt. It is often
referred to as the 'Athens of the North'
due to its fine, Palladian architecture
and general air of education, refinement
and appearance.
* In 1996
The Stone of Destiny is returned to
Scotland 7000 years after it was taken
to Westminster by the English to crown
English Kings and Queens. On St Andrews
day the Stone was taken to Edinburgh
castle for public viewing.
*
More recently, the reintroduction of
the Scottish parliament, three centuries
after it was dissolved by the Act of
Union, has meant a return of Scottish
government to Edinburgh, leading to
a general boom in the city's financial
and business affairs.
The
Old Town
The Old Town is the largely medieval
heart of Edinburgh in which you can
find most of its important historic
monuments, including Edinburgh Castle,
St Giles' Cathedral, the Palace of Holyrood
and many more. Heading down from the
Castle Esplanade we immediately enter
the Royal Mile. The Royal Mile is the
historic backbone of the Old Town, linking
together Edinburgh's two royal strongholds
- Edinburgh Castle and the Palace of
Holyrood. Running the length of four
streets - Castlehill, Lawnmarket, High
Street & Canongate -there's certainly
plenty to see and explore. Going back
through time you would have found street
stalls, street entertainers, beggars
taverns, royal processions, public hangings,
riots, the unpopular Town Guard, merchants,
foreigners, fine town houses of the
nobility, and the law courts. Many of
the surviving buildings have seen 200
years or more of Edinburgh life and
even today you can look around and imagine
what it must have been like for the
citizens of the time, particularly when
wandering the many narrow closes and
wynds that run off from the Royal Mile.
These closes, every one of which has
a tale attached to it, usually open
into courtyards, characteristic of a
bygone lifestyle. The Flodden Wall which
was to be the protector of the city
forced the town to grow up instead of
out, the high tenements creating an
effect of great character and diversity.
Different social classes were often
neighbours in these tenement buildings,
which had a common entrance from the
public street. In the early years of
the present century, a period when much
of the Old Town had deteriorated to
slum property, many a destitute family
still sat by an ornate fireplace inscribed
with the coat of arms of a half-forgotten
noble family.
A magnet for tourists, the Old Town
includes many notable and historic buildings,
some of the older examples including
St Giles Kirk (1120), the Castle (1368),
John Knox's House (c.1490), Magdalen
Chapel (1545), the Canongate Tolbooth
(1591) and Kirk (1688), Lady Stair's
House (1622) and Moray House (1625).
The Old Town was named a World Heritage
Site in 1995.
Today the Royal Mile retains its distinctive
character, thanks to it's appealing
historic architecture and a policy of
careful conservation by the City Fathers
and Conservation Groups. The rehabilitation
of many of the area's historic buildings
as residences during the past 70 years
has provided a firm foundation for a
thriving modern community.
The Cowgate & Grassmarket areas
are towards the southern end of the
Old Town. This bustling area is filled
with clubs, pubs, music venues and restaurants/coffeshops.
It's a particularly busy spot and for
the locals it's usually their first
stop on a night out. When the sun shines
the Grassmarket has the feel of a continental
town with relaxed al fresco coffee drinking,
little traffic and authentic, colourful
shop-fronts which make this one of Edinburgh's
'must go to' places.
Princes
Street Gardens
Princes Street gardens fill the valley
between Old Town and New Town, with
Princes Street itself lining the northern
side. The gardens were once the site
of the Nor' Loch (part of the Castle's
defensive moat) but this was drained
in the 1750s in order that some gardens
could be built. In 1816 an Act of Parliament
protected the site from commercial development
and so to this day the gardens remain
an oasis in the heart of the city. During
the summer months the park acts as a
mecca for visitors in search of panoramic
views of the city - for tourists who
wish to climb the Scott Monument; for
workers lunching in the open, for children
who want to run wild, and for just about
anybody who needs to relax and escape
the hustle and bustle of Princes Street
itself. Also situated at the foot of
the Mound is the oldest Floral Clock
in the world. Dating from 1903 it is
made up of over 20,000 flowers and has
electrical hands. If you visit the clock,
arrive in time for the quarter past
the hour ritual of a little cuckoo appearing
from its home. During the Christmas
and New year period there is an ice-rink
set up here under the gaze of the Castle
and there is a decidedly festive atmosphere
in the park at this time with stalls
selling Christmas goods and seasonal
ornaments. A massive ferris wheel situated
next to the Scott Monument has also
been in attendance lately to add to
the fun.
The Mound is in the centre of Princes
Street Gardens and is known as The Mound
because it is, in fact, the mound of
earth that was left over from dredging
the Nor' Loch at the footof the castle,
- the Mound also has The Royal Scottish
Academy and The National Gallery situated
there.
The
New Town
Whilst the Old Town marks the historical
part of the city, the New Town is more
a celebration of business, order &
classical Georgian architecture. This
is the terrain of the shops, offices
and banks, which are laid out in precisely
gridded streets that emanate precision
and symmetry. It was James Drummond,
the six times Lord Provost of Edinburgh,
who came up with the idea of a 'new
town' and urged the council to support
it to relieve the chronic overcrowding
that had occurred in the Old Town Edinburgh.
A competition was announced in 1767
for the design and it was, won by James
Craig, a 23-year-old unknown architect.
His plan was to create an entirely residential
area consisting of three main east-west
streets encompassed by two grand squares
at either end and incorporating large
public gardens and green areas. This
development proved so popular that several
other New Town developments were added,
making Edinburgh one of the most beautiful
Georgian towns in the UK.
George Street, named in honour of George
III, is the centrepiece of the New Town.
It features high quality shops, restaurants
and a host of bars/grills which were
once imposing Bank or other Finance
related buildings. With Queen Street
to the north and Princes' Street (the
King's first three sons born by 1766)
to the south. These streets were the
symbolic link between Scotland and England
in the form of St. Andrew's Square (home
of the Melville Monument and the Royal
Bank of Scotland. It also marks the
financial area of the New Town) and
St. George's Square. The latter was
renamed Charlotte Square in honour of
the Queen and their first daughter before
it was laid out by Robert Adam in 1791.
Running across the scheme are Frederick
Street, a name shared by the King and
his father, Hanover Street after the
royal family, and Castle Street, which
approaches the Castle.
Princes Street, just below George Street,
is the main shopping area of Edinburgh
and the most famous part of the New
Town. A very busy spot, its views of
the Castle and proximity to the park
make it a mecca for visitors and weary
shoppers alike. Across the road is the
Scott Monument, a predominant feature
on Princes Street's skyline with a total
of 287 steps in all leading to a tremendous
view of this part of the city.
The most impressive building is Register
House, at the north-eastern end of the
street. Also at this end is Waverley
market, next to Waverley station. The
roof area of this shopping centre is
a popular venue for performers during
the Festival. Whilst Princes Street
offers shoppers department stores and
high street chains, Rose Street, just
behind it, is an attractive pedestrianised
area with more shops and cafes.
Stockbridge & Dean are in the western
part of the New Town, and are known
for being more outgoing and less structured.
It is littered with little shops and
boutiques which sit alongside various
eating places and bars. Places like
Randolph Crescent and Moray Place give
the area a more curvaceous look with
classical Georgian fronts. Dean village
is an attractive old milling community
well worth a visit, whilst all in all
Stockbridge is a great place to browse
through.
The New Town continued to be developed
until 1830, with the noted architect
Robert Reid (1774-1856) developing the
area around Drummond Place (named after
the visionary Provost) and James Gillespie
Graham (1776-1855) creating Melville
Street to Moray Place from the Earl
of Moray's 'Lands of Drumsheugh'. -
Named a World Heritage Site (1995),
the New Town remains a highly desirable
residential area with Princes Street
being recognised internationally for
retailing, and George Street still retains
most of Edinburgh's considerable financial
sector, although much of it has moved
to various Business Parks on the outskirts
of the city.